Handbook
This manual is designed to get the maximum pleasure in safety for the current and future owners of the slup CYD 2705. It should contain the details of the boat, the equipment fitted, installations and instructions on its use and maintenance tips.
Technical Characteristics:
Length of hull (LOA): 8.25 m
Length waterline (LWL): 6.75
Maximum beam: 2.156 m
Draft: 1.715 m
Displacements Lightship: 1,780 Kg
Material: Cored LVS Laminate / Vinylester
Weight of ballast: 754 Kg
Sail area upwind: 52 Sqm
Sail area downwind: 86,3 Sqm
Fuel: 50 Lt in aluminium tank
Number of persons allowed: 5
Engine: Yanmar 2YM15C
Classified under the Offshore design category B of the European directive for yacht construction.
Designed according to ORC and IRC
MMSI: 269116930
Call Sign: HBY5646
Yardstick Rating: 94
Class Division Length: 7,050
Certificate: 14
ORC Ref 03270000KB5
VPP Ver. 2020 1.02
Valid until 31-12-2020
Racing crew weight:
Min 185Kg Max 270Kg Default
Flag certificate: 07156
Port of registration: Basel
Construction
Hull material and equipment
- The hull is core built with vinyl ester resin. Vinyl ester resin is stronger than polyester and more resident to osmosis (similar to epoxy).
- The boat was made on a male mould and layering of fibre glass, core material and Vinyl ester by hand. The core material is stiff and does not absorb water
- To avoid water penetration and create stiffness, the hull and deck have been joint laminated (not glued). Also the frame and tensioners/stiffeners were laminated to the hull (no use of glues)
- The Kiel was sealed with Sikaflex in 2018. The keel is a fin of led, which is more efficient and easy to sail than a bulb.
- Because the boat has a symmetric spinnaker (not an asymmetric), it is more pleasant to sail in shop waters. Also due to the lower centre of gravity avoids the speed drag of a bulb on calm waters
- Kiel is of the lead there are 8 metal rods and the metal plate is on top of the Kiel and only to hoist the boat with one hook, instead of belts.
- The rudder is are of vinyl ester resin with stainless still rudder stock. Has no ball bearings.
Companionway
Saloon Port Side
Saloon Starboard Side
Forepeak
Aft Peak
Engine
Bimini shade top
Main sail & cockpit cover
External covers
Electricity 12v system
Always:
- Turn battery switches off after each use!
- Check the batteries before putting to sea (>12.1v charge to 12.6)
- Disconnect batteries for winter storage
- Check that the navigation equipment is working
- Check that the navigation lights are working before sailing at night and carry replacement bulbs for all the navigation and internal lights
Never:
- Work on any electrical equipment while it is connected
- Modify the electrical installation or the main wiring unless this is done by a qualified marine electrician
- Change or modify the breaking capacity of any overload protection
- Install or replace any electrical equipment with components rated for a higher capacity that the prescribed without recalibrating the conductors and the fuses
- Leave the boat unattended when the electrical equipment is on
The 12 V system comprises two 95 Ah Gel batteries (which don’t need maintance) connected to a functional electrical switchboard. The batteries are located in the saloon at the mast step. Each battery pole is linked to a circuit breaker, both installed on the portside. They don’t require to be loaded in winter.
There is no land connection to charge batteries. Batteries are charged with an engine or car charger.
To switch the system on, close the “+” and “-” circuit breakers. This feeds power to the electrical switchboard. Each function is protected by a fuse whose ratings are given in the appendices. Press the appropriate switch to activate a function.
Lights
- The boat has two redundant sets of navigation lights Aqua Signal 25: tricolour system on the mast bicolour and stern light
- Additional lights include: white mast light for anchoring and four lights in the interior of the boat
Garmin GPSMAP 721 with N2K and WiFi connectivity
Garmin GMI 20 DST800, gWind and GND 10 Bundle
Garmin GNX Wind with wireless mast instrument
Engine
The CYD 2705 is equipped with an inboard engine Yanmar 2YM15 Series with saildrive. This is a4-stroke, vertical, water-cooled diesel engine with maximum output of 10.3 Kw.
Engine number: E00216
The Yanmar Operational Manual has the detail operation procedures for the engine and is part of this Owner Book. Plans of engine and sail drive installation are in appendix.
Before starting:
Visual inspection of engine exterior
Check the fuel level and refill if necessary
Check engine oil level and oil in crank drive (not every time)
After starting check any leakage of fuel engine out and engine coolant
Maintenance
Drain the fuel from the deposit (twice a year) with a fuel pump. If you leave fuel in the tank bacteria will come in
Use of additives if necessary. Best is to be always on fresh fuel: fuel consumption is low so tank only 10 to 15 litters
Engine overview
The boat has an extra coolant external deposit coolant deposit at port side. The deposit is transparent to allow checking level of coolant
Engine Operation
Before engine start:
Turn on the battery switch
Push the power switch on
All alarm lamps light up for 4 seconds
After 4 seconds, the charge lamp and lubricating oil pressure alarm lamp light up and the hourmeter is displayed
The alarm buzzer sounds until the engine starts
After engine start:
All alarm lamps turn off. If not inspection and repair are required
Check if the water is running out from the cooling at the back
Shutdown:
Reduce engine speed to low idle and put in neutral
Accelerate from low to high speed and repeat 5 times (to clean carbon from cylinders)
Allow engine to run low speed without load for 5 minutes
After operation:
Check that the power switch is off and that the battery switch is off
Fill the fuel tank
If there is risk of freezing, drain the seawater system
Engine plans
Engine installation plans are available on the following engine plan link
Mast and Standing Rig
The IMS-27 is equipped with carbon fibre composite mast.
Mast construction
The mast, made of carbon fibre / Epoxy resin composite, is lighter and stiffer than aluminium masts. It is also stronger, and is less prone to fatigue than aluminium. However, the following points are to be respected:
The mast is optimised to resist against longitudinal, axial loads, so it is not built to take lateral or longitudinal abuse except in areas where especially reinforced. The reinforced areas are from mast step to 2m above boom, +25cm at each spreader, +50cm at the l-point, and the last 20cm near the masthead. When transporting, the mast should be supported in these points.
Periodic mast check
Local impact loads can cause de-lamination, so never hit the mast with a hammer, or any heavy objects.
The mast is specifically reinforced for each fitting mounted, so do not attempt to fit new pieces or drill holes without consulting Nordic Mast. Modifying the mast without Nordic Masts approval is regarded as violation of the warranty.
Periodic check: Check for any signs of chafe around rig fittings, or halyard exits and leads. Chafe on webbing straps used for mainsheet and outhaul
Mast setting
The mast can be craned, stepped and tuned as any aluminium mast, and its excellent stiffness to weight ratio makes handling easy (you will need 3 people to set the mast ready).
Mast collar in Spartite
Instructions from first owner and mast producer:
According to first owner
Taking mast in (according to first owner)
Take the mast in the crane below first spread
Step in the mast but be careful to not damage the Spartite
Screw the shrouds by hand with little tension: same amount of turns in both sides and ca 10 turns on V1 and 10 turns on D1
Make sure the mast is vertical
The tension on V1 (outside shrouds) should be higher than on D1 (inside shrouds)
Put the forestay in place
Use pump to lift the mast an insert the two plates (shims)
Seal the mast with collar tape (waterproof take at mast foot)
Climb the mast with main sail halyard and install the windmeter
Taking the mast down
Climb the mast and take the windmeter with the main sail halyard
Take the mast collar tape out
Release the pressure in the mast using the hydraulic pump to take the two shims (plates)
Release the back stay and the forestay
Release the shrouds
Crane mast neck should be fixed below the the level of the first spreader
Spartite should stay with the mast for transportation
According to Mast Producer
Stepping procedure according to manufacturer instructions:
Included are base values for rod tensions, these can be used as starting points, and then re-fined according the owners will. Deformation of the boat when loaded is not taken into account. However, this only affects lengths, not loads.
Step mast on shims (base plates)
Adjust headstay to rake (angle at which a mast slopes aft from vertical as viewed from the side)
Keep D2 and backstay totally slack
Take slack out of V1 (external) and D1 (internal) keeping mast strait fore/aft (or to preferred pre-bend).
Lower mast and take in 20.2mm on V1 (external) and 8.8mm on D1 (internal)
Jack up the mast and check manometer reading is 121bar – if not, lower mast and adjust V1 slightly.
With correct reading on manometer, mast standing on shims, take slack out of D2.
Lower mast and take in 3.3mm on D2 (internal-upper) and 2.2mm on V1 (external).
Jack up the mast and check manometer reading is 154bar- if not, lower mast and adjust D2 slightly
With backswept spreaders, these values are quite theoretical as rig tension will cause fore/aft bending of the mast. Tension on V1, D1 slack, will make the mast bend too much. The opposite will make the mast invert. Adjusting both at same time leaves no opportunity of checking loads separately. This procedure is based on following principle:
Tension on main shroud till V2/D3 reaches final stretch. Only by then D2 can find its zero position from where stretch should be deducted.
As D1 works independent of main shroud it can be used to control mast bend during stepping. Most reliable is final manometer reading
Running Rig
27m2 Mainsail halyard (red) 8mm (Liros Regatta 2000)
17.66m2 Genoa halyard (bleu) 8mm (Liros Regatta 2000)
47.17m2 Spinnaker Halyard (yellow bleu) 6mm (Liros Racer or )
Pole lift (bleu) 6mm (standard rope elastic bleu)
Car lines (bleu). 5mm (standard rope)
Cunningham (green) 6mm (Liros regatta 2000)
Vang (bleu and green) 6.5mm. (Liros regatta 2000)
Outhaul (dark and light bleu) 6.5mm. (Liros regatta 2000)
Mainsheet (red/ orange) 10mm standard Rope
Sheets 10mm (standard)
Liros recommendations web page link
Mooring lines (displacement 1,780 kg) 12mm (Liros Porto, Liros Squareline PES or 14mm (Liros Moorex 14mm)
Rope Clutches: Rutgerson Rope Clutch RC 750
Parts are available here and instruction on how to replace parts are here
Check list for Taking the Boat out in winter
take out mast electronic Connections
Fix the supports for the mast with the tape to the deck QQ
Release the tension on the stages
Release the upper railing
Take the tape of the most base out
Provide instructions to the wharf
Take out of the boat any non-critical materials like safety equipment etc.
Provide wood blocks to put the trailer safe
Things to be done:
Wax and clean the hull
Clean inside
clean your propeller & put a lite coating of a Lithium base waterproof grease on the teeth/forks/blade root – the moving parts (to stop surface oxidising)
Care
Inox parts: clean with cloth with a bit of oil regularly; make sure any new part is in A4 quality
Other
Anchor weight 5.8kg and chain of 8 meters
Sails inventory
Kevlar sales from North Sails Argentina. There are two sets of sails: training and race. The current inventory includes Genoas (a large jib that overlaps the mainsail), Mainsails, Spinnakers (symmetric large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs) and Trysails (smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather)
North SailsKevlar
Setting Genoa and Main Sail
Climbing the Mast
Removing the mast
Hoisting the Boat
Fixing the boat
Possible Sails for consideration
New 3Di sails import possible (link to last offer for new sails 2020)
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/light-air-sails-and-their-uses
Jib - triangular staysail
Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
1.5 Light-Air reacher
- Remains the best option for sailing anywhere near to dead downwind
- Less likely to be bought brand-new these days: improvements in the shape of downwind-optimised asymmetric
- A sail designed for running, for example, tends to have broad shoulders to maximize area and a deep shape, again to help rotate it out away from the main.
- Before the advent of A3 asymmetrics, many racing yachts also carried smaller, lightweight, symmetrical “reaching spinnakers” with a flatter cut (effectively employed in apparent wind strengths of 10 knots or less
Asymmetric Spinnakers or A-Sails
- Running at deep downwind angles, they sail almost as low as traditional symmetric sails in flat water, given an attentive crew.
- A-sails don’t really work at a TWA of greater than around 160 degrees in flat water.
- an A-sail designed for running can also be carried on a beam reach, even though it hasn’t been aerodynamically optimised for this purpose.
- Can also be cut as dedicated reaching sails (A3), this kind of sail fits the slot between an A2 and a Code 0
- Can be an important when optimising speed at all wind angles is vital (changing winds and short course)
Code Zero
- Cross between a genoa and an asymmetric spinnaker,
- Cut with a flat shape that allows you to sail relatively close to the apparent wind.
- Can be especially effective in light airs
- They are made of a very light fabric, so the lightest of zephyrs will fill the sail.
- Provide significantly more sail area than even the largest overlapping genoas
- Can also be used at up to a 90-degree true-wind angle (TWA) in 10 knots or more of wind. In even stronger airs, it can be carried with the TWA as far aft as 130 degrees
- NOTE: it’s impossible to wrap a Code 0 either around the headstay or into a wineglass,